1)  Piece your top carefully...The flatter the top and borders are, the better it will quilt~

 

2)  Trim stray threads and frayed edges - these can hang up a longarm machine, causing a needle to break~ IF YOU HAVE SHEDDING PETS...USE A STICKY ROLLER TO REMOVE AS MUCH FUR AS POSSIBLE... do you want little "Fluffy's" fur stitched to your quilt forever.....?

 

3)  Press your top and backing carefully, pressing seams open where possible~

 

4)  Backing and batting must be at least 4" larger than the top on all sides~

 

5)  Ensure backings are square (90 degree corners, parallel straight edges)  Wonky edges are hard to attach to the quilting machine and make it difficult to ensure your backing is straight~

 

6)  If backings are pieced, remove selvedges before sewing the seam and use a 1/2" seam. Selvedges actually shrink at a different rate than the rest of the fabric.  Also it's harder to needle because of the tight weave.~

 

7)  Don't baste or pin your quilt. ~

 

8)  If your top is directional mark the top edge with a pin -the same with your backing....  Don't think we will know (well sometimes we do, but please don't leave it up to us to decide).~

 

9)  Normally if a quilt is rectangular there are short sides & long sides.  Usually the short sides are the top & bottom, if you intend for the long edges to be the top and bottom (to hang over the sides of a bed) --PLEASE let me know.~

 

10)  Leave cutting of scalloped edges until AFTER the quilting is complete.~

 

11)  Stay stitch 1/8" around pieced borders to prevent seams opening.~ 

 

12)  Hold your quilt up with the light behind it and check for seams that didn't quite catch both sides of the fabric.~

 

13)  Added decorative embellishments (i.e. buttons, bows, etc.) on a quilt will have to be removed... You can do this or we can...(we charge). If you have added beaded eyes that you don't want removed, the cost will most likely be towards the custom end of the spectrum.~

 

  

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